"Child, Cornbread Ain't Never S'pose to be Sweet"

My ancestors would be rolling over in their graves if they knew our soul food kitchen here in Tel Aviv was making a sweet cornbread. That is to say, if they ever made cornbread in their lives (doubtful) or even had the faintest sense about controversies raging over what it is (bread) and what it ostensibly is not (cake).

I have an old friend of mine from university days to thank for this heresy. She hails from Texas, which pretty much explains everything. It’s true: They do things differently there.

But this dish — which mixes in a generous plenty of sugar and sweet potatoes and then tops it off with a bourbon butter glaze — did not come about because I was simply looking to do things a bit differently. (Although I have to admit, I’m a junkie for looking for ways out of routine.) Nope. The simple fact of the matter is that the straight-up, no-nonsense, nothing-sweet-about-me version of cornbread is so foreign to the Israeli palate that no one wants to try it.

And I’m on a mission to convert (yes, I know, Jews don’t proselytize, but this is different). What’s not to love about cornbread? I happen to like mine with an avalanche of spicy peppers embedded, but the Israeli palate is also not all that keen on explosive capsaicin). So let’s go sweet instead. Plus, there’s the added bonus that we are on the cusp of the winter holidays, with a lot of culinary attention given to yams. So sure, why not? Sweet potato cornbread with a bourbon honey glaze.

To tell the truth, I’m not much for things sweet. But this Texas dish kicks ass.