It's All Water Under the Cress

One of the most famous and accomplished chefs in the US is Thomas Keller. He also happens to be at the top of my personal list as someone who mentors, inspires, etc. A remarkable presence in my life. Anyway, in his book The French Laundry Cookbook, Keller talks about the law of diminishing returns when it comes to how we eat: The first bite bowls you over, the second is nothing shy of amazing, by the 5th or 6th bite, we have already dulled our reaction to an amazing dish. It is the main reason why Keller likes to serve his soups in very small quantities, so that you get the immediacy and vibrancy and newness of the tastes and are not disappointed by sucking down a huge quantity of the stuff.

The perfect case in point is the Watercress Soup that comes out of our soul food kitchen. Like most really great soups, this one showcases the intense taste of one ingredient., in this case watercress. And, you may not know this, it takes a shitload of fresh watercress to reduce to the intense taste and color suggested by the accompanying picture. It’s a stunning dish, from every perspective. Of course, virtually no one orders it. I’m OK with that.

But it begs the question: Why have something this time-consuming on the menu? Simple. It is there for that one guest in 100 who wants to be bowled over by the unexpected.