Scrambled Eggs Super!
One of my latest obsessions has been to create the perfect dish of scrambled eggs.
The literature is extraordinary. There is widespread agreement on two things: A significant portion of an egg is water and cooking them slowly will inhibit the binding of the water with the egg’s proteins into a dry, congealed, unappetizing bleh. Beyond that, each chef has his/her own technique for making creamy scrambled eggs:
Daniel Boulud: Add chunks of butter into the egg batter before cooking
Mandy Lee: Add a bit of cornstarch, potato starch, or tapioca starch to the batter
Jason Bond (via Lopez-Alt): Add an extra egg yolk for stronger color and a bit more fat
Thomas Keller: Place in a blender, for further refinement
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt: Keep the pan right at 100 C (using a water evaporation technique)
Michael Ruhlman: Cook in a water bath
Thomas Keller, again: Add creme fraiche
I’ve tried them all (and others not listed here), separately and in various combinations. They all work beautifully. My favorite? Hard to believe and hardly scientific. But I actually do all of the above in the sequence provided. Is this the healthiest way for me to start my day in the kitchen every day? Fuck off. I like ‘em.